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Fashion Drawing: Party Dress

At twenty, Ray wrote to her mother declaring that she wanted to earn a living in “commercial art, either advertising or costume design.” Six years later, she wrote again saying that her friend Eleanor McClatchy “told me that ‘Fran’ (Francis Hayes) was to give a concert in February and wanted a costume, so I drew up several designs and sent them to Eleanor—who seemed to like them very much.”

The drawing is signed “Ray Kaiser” in lower right corner.

Artifact
A.2019.2.010
Material
Ink and graphite on paper
Artist / Designer
Ray Kaiser
Dimensions
17 ¹⁵⁄₁₆ × 11 ⅞ in
45.6 × 30.2 cm
Date
c. 1930

This floor-length, bias-cut evening dress would have been the height of fashion in the late 1920s and early 1930s when Ray was a high school student and a member of the Art Club. It is likely that this illustration was created during a session of the club. It is one of a small number of Ray’s drawings that survive from this period.

The strikingly geometric fabric design of pink, white and black overlapping circles and a large green leaf is repeated and magnified behind the model’s head. As a member of the Art Club Ray would have been exposed to Art Deco, a visual arts style influenced by the geometric forms of Cubism (an art style that flourished in the 1920s and 1930s). The soft, clinging fabric is probably intended to represent a silk faille or crepe—both popular textiles in the 1930s that draped beautifully.

Dale Carolyn Gluckman

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